Enchenté, Cuisine.

When I was fifteen, I embarked on my first trip to Europe. My dad had recently started flying internationally for Delta and I began playing hooky to hop free rides abroad. While each jaunt had its own culinary highlights, this first trip was particularly prophetic of my life to come. We flew directly into the cradle of classic European cuisine: Lyon, France.

I’m sure my stay in Lyon involved your typical pedestrian sightseeing; museums, cathedrals and statues, but my only real memory is of dining at 38 Rue de Beouf (for some reason I remember only the address and not the name). Perched on the edge of a cobble stone street, the tiny restaurant welcomed us like a warm home. Inside, a husband and wife team churned out traditional French dishes from a closet-sized kitchen. It was within this building that creaked with history, that I ate the first food that made me stop in my tracks. I specifically remember the rabbit alighted in aspic and the dreamlike ile flotant that followed suite. Never had I tasted food constructed with such precision, the outcome of centuries of trial and error.

The night at 38 Rue de Beouf was my first encounter with experiential dining, and thus the moment of my culinary awakening. I’ve had rabbit several times since, but never cooked it myself. And, in true nostalgic fashion have taken it upon myself to learn to cook the animal that introduced me French Cuisine.

As, I’m not a huge fan of rabbit Jell-O, I decided to forgo the aspic. Rabbit, an especially lean animal, tends to do well in a braise. The liquid not only keeps the meat moist, but also imparts flavor.
I served the rabbit with sautéed mushrooms and a puree of cauliflower with mascarpone. If you try one thing from the whole ensemble, it must be the cauliflower. Light as air and made rich with the mascarpone, this is a great side for any winter meal. You’ll never go back to mashed potatoes again.

Braised Rabbit

1 3 lbs rabbit, butchered into 6 pieces
Olive Oil
Salt and pepper
A.P. flour
1 Onion, chopped roughly
1 carrot, chopped roughly
2 celery stalks, chopped roughly
2 cloves garlic, crushed
3T rosemary removed from stem
2 c red wine
2 c chicken stock
3 T butter
2T lemon juice

1. Heat oil in a large pan or Dutch oven.
2. Sprinkle meat with salt and pepper then lightly coat with flour
3. Sear rabbit in pan until a golden crust forms. About 3-4 minutes on each side. Remove from pan and set aside.
4. Add the onions, carrot and celery to the pan. Sautee until the onion and celery begin to soften.
5. Add the garlic and the rosemary and cook for 1 minute or until they become fragrant.
6. Nestle the rabbit pieces back in the pot with the vegetables. Add the wine and stock to almost cover.
7. Cover the pot and cook at a low simmer for 45-50 minutes.
8. When the rabbit is cooked, remove from the pan and set aside to rest.
9. Strain the cooking liquid through a sieve into another pot. Discard the vegetables.
10. Bring the sauce to a low simmer and allow it to reduce to a desired thickness. Season with salt and pepper to taste and ad lemon for brightness.
11. Remove from heat and swirl in the butter until dissolved. Serve with the rabbit.

Sautéed Mushrooms

Olive oil
2c Crimini mushrooms, peeled and stems removed
Salt and Pepper
Lemon juice

1. Heat the oil in a medium sauté pan.
2. Add the mushrooms and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook until tender.
3. Toss the mushrooms with lemon juice to taste.

Puréed Cauliflower with Mascarpone

1 small head cauliflower, broken into small florets
Olive oil
2-3T lemon juice
¼ c mascarpone
Salt and pepper

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook until tender, about 15 minutes.
2. Strain the cauliflower and place in a food processor.
3. Add enough olive oil to allow the cauliflower to blend into a puree.
4. Add the mascarpone and lemon juice.
5. Season with salt and pepper.